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It’s hard to believe there was once a time when Nirvana, the Spice Girls, Beverly Hills, Toy Story (1996), the Nokia 3310, the Tamagotchi, and VHS cassettes were all part of the same era, so much as they became icons in their own right. '90s fashion, however, is the most significant legacy that the decade at the brink of the new millennium is synonymous with.
It was an era in which a shared awareness of multiculturalism and globalization increased, the internet and new technologies spread wide, and the media got enough power to influence everyday life in a way we had never seen before. What stood out in '90s fashion, though, is that both men and women embraced new experimental styles that have indelibly shaped the fashion landscape forever.
The era celebrated for its aesthetics witnessed the creation of unforgettable style moments in fashion history and at the same time, it solidified the iconic status of key figures in the industry like Kate Moss, Sara Jessica Parker, Jennifer Lopez, Naomi Campbell, Grace Jones and many more.
In this exploration of '90s fashion, we delve into its lasting appeal, the essential style elements that defined the decade, and the iconic celebrities who left an indelible mark on the '90s fashion era.
The defining styles of '90s fashion
'90s Grunge Fashion
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What do Eddie Vedder, Kurt Cobain, Chris Cornell, and Courtney Love have in common? That is besides packing up stadiums and creating some of the best genre-defining rock music ever.
The answer is rugged yet effortlessly cool flannel shirts, ripped jeans, and combat boots that became emblematic pieces for what we now call "grunge" fashion. Kurt Cobain of Nirvana personified this trend, embracing a chaotic look that resonated with the raw, rebellious spirit of the decade.
The grunge movement broke gender norms, encouraging women to adopt a gritty, unapologetic look while men could also explore a softer, nonchalant aesthetic.
We might take this look for granted now but let's not forget that most of its core fashion staples, like layering a baggy short-sleeve t-shirt over a long-sleeve one or cardigan over tees, ripped jeans and baggy clothes were new and unexpected back then.
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Hip-hop and the early days of streetwear
Getty Images / Michael Ochs Archives
The rise of hip-hop culture in the '90s brought a distinctive streetwear aesthetic to the forefront.
Baggy jeans (and I mean really baggy), oversized hoodies (and I mean really oversized), dungarees, lots of denims, and snapback caps became wardrobe-essentials. Artists like TLC and Salt-N-Pepa embraced bold colors, funky patterns, and eye-catching accessories, creating a sporty, high-fashion blend that celebrated comfort and loud statements.
Clark Wallabees, Air Jordans, and Timberland boots were the most iconic and stylish footwear of that decade.
Top that with an immense catalog of soulful hip-hop captained by the likes of J-Dilla, De La Soul, and Lauryn Hill or the aggressive gangsta rap of Tupac and Biggie, and there you have one of the most influential '90s fashion styles.
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'90s Minimalism and Calvin Klein's Legacy
Getty Images / David Turner / WWD / Penske Media
In stark contrast to grunge and streetwear, minimalism gained prominence in ‘90s fashion circles with brands like Calvin Klein and Helmut Lang. Defined by its clean lines, simple silhouettes, and muted color palettes, this style was all about understated elegance.
Models like Kate Moss and Gia Carangi, Naomi Campbell, and so many more epitomized the "heroin chic" controversial look, emphasizing a slender, androgynous appearance combined with pale skin and dark circles under the eyes. Calvin Klein campaigns were among the most well-known examples of this look being used, and many of the famous "heroin chic" models posed in these campaigns.
Similar to the '90s fashion trends above, also minimalism transcended gender boundaries, promoting a unisex approach to fashion that was truly revolutionary at the time. Many of its foundational concepts are still replicated in today’s industry, well over 30 years later.
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The Supermodels' Impact
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The '90s fashion world belonged to supermodels, both on and off the runway. Thanks to iconic slip dresses, high-waisted jeans, and crop tops, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Claudia Schiffer, and many more became true fashion icons and gained a reputation that has never been repeated since by other models.
'90s supermodels made athleisure chic, inspiring women to incorporate sports bras and bike shorts into their everyday outfits.
On the men's side, chiseled physiques were accentuated by fitted shirts and tailored suits, bringing out a timeless sense of masculinity.
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The Preppy Revival and TV's Influence
Getty Images / Chris Haston / NBCU Photo Bank
The '90s also saw the resurgence of preppy fashion, partly fuelled by the custom design of popular TV shows like Beverly Hills 9021, Clueless, and Friends.
Plaid skirts, knee-high socks, and blazers became part of the wardrobes of young women inspired by characters like Cher Horowitz. Sweatshirts and Levi's 501s, on the other hand, gained popularity amongst those who never missed an episode of TV shows like Beverly Hills 90210 and Friends, perhaps dreaming of living the same adventures as the protagonists.
Tartan miniskirts, cropped micro sweaters and designer bags are instead the hallmarks of those who rode another trend—the one launched by Cher, the fashion-addicted student in the film Clueless (1995).
On the men's front, the versatile but always stylish looks worn by Will Smith in The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air, showcased a sharp preppy look. This style revival encouraged both men and women to embrace more polished, collegiate fashion, that feels like it never went out of fashion.
And then there are the followers of the Spice Girls. The revolutionary British girl group, carried an over-the-top style of strong colors and garments inspired by the rave scene of the decade. From varsity jackets to boots with maxi platforms, ultra-sexy tops to neon glasses, it really feels like their style is as relevant today as it’s ever been.
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Denim Dominance
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Double denim was an iconic '90s and Y2K fashion trend. Check out Britney Spears and Justin Timberlake at the 2001 American Music Awards if you don't believe me. Oversized denim jackets paired with loose-fitting jeans made for a powerful fashion statement that seemed to thrive in this decade. A white tee and a backward cap completed the look.
Why so much denim in '90s fashion styles? I don’t think anyone's completely sure, but denim's androgynous appeal made it be appreciated across the board, promoting a shared love for this quintessential '90s fabric.
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Accessorizing with a '90s Twist
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Let's get to where '90s fashion truly was in a league of its own. Often meme-worthy, accessories were a vital addition to any respectable outfit of the decade.
Chokers, scrunchies, and slap bracelets were so damn popular. And let's remember the ever-so-versatile bandana finding its way onto heads, necks, and wrists.
Grunge enthusiasts embraced body piercings, and Kurt Cobain's round sunglasses added a quirky charm to outfits.
Meanwhile for Spice Girls' enthusiasts, well, all the glittery rest.
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The '90s Fashion Revival
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Fast forward to today, and unless you have been living under a rock, the '90s are experiencing a massive resurgence.
Celebrities like Rihanna, Kim Kardashian, and Bella Hadid have breathed new life into iconic '90s looks. Brands are reintroducing pieces inspired by the era, from platform sneakers to slip dresses.
Tom Ford's autumn-winter 2021 fashion show (which ended with Killing Me Softly by the Fugees, a "totally '90s" song) presented a decidedly '90s style.
Milan Fashion Week for spring/summer 2024 was all about '90s nostalgia. Kim Jones paid tribute to Karl Lagerfeld's 1999 Fendi collection, Peter Hawkings drew inspiration from Tom Ford's 1996 Gucci collection, and Donatella Versace looked to her late brother Gianni Versace's 1995 collection to explore modern femininity. Or, Versace SS24 for example was a slick celebration of '90s minimalist tailoring and upfront sex appeal.
Vintage stores have become treasure troves of nostalgia as fashion enthusiasts seek out original '90s gems, still so widely available worldwide.
The best thing about it is that the '90s revival transcends gender, allowing everyone to take part in this nostalgic journey back to a colorful, expressive era and do so in a crazy variety of different ways, but with a smartphone instead of a Nokia now.
For more Highsnobiety history lessons, make sure to check out the history of custom design and look through the best album covers of all time.
