In this time of struggle and strife, the tin has come into its own. It is a humble creature not often at the forefront of anyone’s mind, but in reality the tin (and its jar, packet and pouch cousins) are often the backbone of what we cook and eat. The store cupboard provides a springboard from which you can be creative and spontaneous.
Tinned foods are delicious, nutritious and inexpensive (not to mention extremely long-lasting). Their existence is a blessing that means you can eat juicy figs and de-choked artichokes all year-round, guilt and air-mile free.
The following 10 tins are just a drop in the ocean of options. There has never been a better opportunity to try things that perhaps you have previously turned your nose up at or neglected at the back of your crammed cupboard.
Spiced cannellini beans on toast
serves two
Heat a splash of olive oil in a large frying pan. Once warm, add one chopped garlic clove and fry until starting to colour. Add a pinch of chilli flakes and paprika and cook for a further 30 seconds. Tip in a 400g tin of tomatoes, 2 tsp Worcestershire sauce, 1 tsp brown sugar, 2 tsp cider (or similar) vinegar and a drained 400g tin of cannellini beans. Season, then simmer over a medium-high heat for 15-20 minutes. Serve piled high on toast topped with a crispy fried egg or a blanket of cheddar.
Green lentil fritters
serves two
Mix together a drained 400g tin of green lentils, 70g plain flour, one egg, 3 tbsp chopped chives (or another soft herb), 1 tsp caraway seeds, 1½ tsp paprika, a finely chopped garlic clove and 200g coarsely grated beetroot (or carrot or parsnip). Season. Warm 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan. For each fritter, dollop into the pan a heaped tbsp of the mixture, flatten slightly and fry for about four minutes on each side until golden. Meanwhile, mix 1 tsp harissa into 2 tbsp yogurt. Serve the fritters with a generous spoonful of harissa yogurt.
Butterbean, green lentil and chickpea stew
serves 4
In a large saucepan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil over a low heat. Sweat 2 finely chopped onions gently, with a pinch of salt until very soft (30 to 40 minutes). Add two sliced garlic cloves, two bay leaves, 1½ tsp dried mint and 1 tsp turmeric; cook for a few minutes until the garlic has softened. Tip in drained 400g tins of butterbeans, lentils and chickpeas along with 500ml vegetable stock. Bring to the boil, then turn down and cook for 20-25 minutes. Add 200g of spinach and allow to wilt. Season and ladle into bowls, drizzling over a little more olive oil.
Comforting black beans
serves 4
Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a large frying pan. Add one finely chopped onion and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add two finely chopped garlic cloves, one bay leaf, 2 tsp smoky chilli flakes, a pinch of cinnamon, ½ tsp cumin and two carrots, cut into rounds, then cook for 2-3 minutes. Tip in two 400g tins of black beans (including the liquid) and 300ml of vegetable stock. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20-25 minutes until it has thickened. Season, pile into bowls and serve with rice, a dollop of soured cream and, if you have it, some fresh coriander.
Tomato, lentil and aubergine ragu
serves 6
In a large frying pan, heat 2 tbsp olive oil, add two finely chopped onions and soften gently for 10-15 minutes. Meanwhile, in another frying pan, heat 4 tbsp oil, add two aubergines, cut into chunks, with a pinch of salt, fry on high for 5-10 minutes, stirring often, until the aubergine is golden. Remove from heat. The onions should now be soft; add to them two finely chopped garlic cloves, ½ tsp fennel seeds, two bay leaves and a pinch of chilli flakes. Fry for 2-3 minutes, then add 200ml red wine. Bring to the boil and reduce by two-thirds. Finally, add two 400g drained tins of beluga (or similar) lentils, two 400g tins of tomatoes and the browned aubergine. Season, reduce the heat and simmer for 15-20 minutes. Serve this ragu with soft polenta, pasta or a hunk of bread.
Sweetcorn cakes
serves 3-4
To make a quick chutney, put 50g fresh coriander, 20g mint, one garlic clove, the juice of half a lemon, 40g desiccated coconut and one roughly chopped chilli into a blender with 2-3 tbsp of water. Blitz until smooth, set aside and season. Roughly blitz a drained 198g tin of sweetcorn and add to a bowl; add a non-blitzed, drained tin, two eggs, 100g self-raising flour, 2 tsp mild curry powder and one finely chopped red onion, then season. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan; dollop in heaped tbsps of the mixture, flattening each slightly. Fry for 3-4 minutes on each side until golden. Serve the cakes with the chutney and a lemon wedge.
Sri Lankan mackerel curry
serves 4
You will need three 125g tins of mackerel. Heat 2 tbsp of the oil from one of the tins in a saucepan over a high heat. Add 1 tsp mustard seeds. When they pop, add 1 tsp fenugreek seeds and three cardamom pods. Fry briefly, then reduce the heat and add one finely sliced onion plus a pinch of salt. Sweat for 10-15 minutes until soft. Add 1 tbsp grated ginger, five crushed garlic cloves, one chopped chilli (or equivalent) and 20 curry leaves; fry for 1-2 minutes. Add two 400g tins of tomatoes and season. Simmer for 15 minutes then add the mackerel, taking care to keep the pieces whole. Reduce the heat and warm the mackerel through. Just before serving, stir in 100ml of coconut milk.
Anchovy mac and cheese
serves 4
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/400F/gas mark 6. Melt 50g of butter with seven tinned anchovies in a frying pan over a low heat, add one finely chopped onion and three bay leaves; cook gently for 20-25 minutes until the onion is soft. Meanwhile, boil 350g tube-shaped pasta in salted water until tender. Drain and rinse under cold water. Once the onion is soft, stir in 50g plain flour, cooking for two minutes. Add 650ml milk, a little at a time, stirring until combined before adding more. Cook, stirring, until the sauce has thickened a little. Remove from the heat and melt in 230g grated cheddar. Mix an extra 100g grated cheese with 75g breadcrumbs. Tip the pasta into an ovenproof dish (about 30 x 20cm), mix in the sauce then top with the breadcrumb mixture and a sliced tomato. Bake for 25-35 minutes until golden and bubbling vigorously.
Crab fried rice
serves 4
In a large frying pan, heat 1 tbsp sunflower oil over a medium heat. Once hot, add 200g green beans, cut into short pieces. Fry for 3-4 minutes until starting to colour, then add four finely chopped garlic cloves, 200g cooked rice, 1 tsp chilli oil, 2 tbsp soy sauce and the sliced whites of a bunch of spring onions. Fry, stirring often, until the rice has heated through. Push the rice to one side of the pan and pour two beaten eggs into the space. Leave the eggs to begin to set, then pull the sides into the middle, ensuring all the egg comes into contact with the pan. Once it is all cooked, break it into pieces and stir into the rice. Turn off the heat and stir through two 170g drained tins of crab and 2 tsp sesame oil. Pile into bowls and top with sliced spring onion greens and extra chilli oil.
Pear and prune cobbler
serves 6-8
Heat the oven to 170C/150C fan/375F/gas mark 5. In a 1.5-litre baking dish mix three 411g tins of drained and quartered pears, a 290g tin of prunes in juice, six finely chopped stem ginger pieces, the juice of one lemon and 50g soft brown sugar. Bake for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, in a bowl, rub 125g salted butter into 250g self-raising flour until it resembles breadcrumbs. Stir in 50g more sugar and 50g roughly chopped almonds (or similar). Add 2-3 tbsp cold water and using your hands bring together into a dough. Remove the fruit from the oven. Roll the dough into small balls and sit them on top of the fruit, leaving space in between. Return to the oven for 25-30 minutes until the topping is golden and puffed up and the fruit is bubbling.
Take One Tin by Lola Milne is published by Kyle Books. To order for £12.89 (RRP £14.99) go to guardianbookshop.com. P&P charges may apply. Photography by Lizzie Mayson.
